Calm waters on the Curtis Coast

Calm conditions

The First Mate is a "fair weather sailor", preferring light winds and no swell to adventure on the high seas. The Captain does his best to accommodate this, and regular checking of the BOM page "Met Eye" keeps us both well informed and able to make reasonably good cruising decisions. Of course, as any sailor knows, wind gusts and wave heights can be much greater than forecast, but we take that chance. We have been cruising in mostly favourable weather conditions ever since we left the Clarence River, but have enjoyed a particularly good patch in the last week.

Another beautiful sunset

Leaving Hervey Bay and the Great Sandy Straits early on Wednesday morning, there was a slight swell, which made eating breakfast a little bit of a challenge, but soon after that the sea flattened out and we cruised along the coast, admiring the view from the Flybridge - wearing our ePirbs "just in case", but feeling safe and enjoying the beautiful sunny day. We saw no whales as we crossed Hervey Bay, and wondered where the many boatloads of Whale-Watch tourists went each day! Soon after midday we cruised into the Burnett River, the channel markers well out to sea to guide the sugar ships upstream making it easy to see where to go. The small boat harbour just inside looked silted up and shallow, so we dropped anchor in the large basin just before the Marina and lazed the afternoon away. Intending to travel on the next morning,  we didn't make the two hour cruise up to Bundaberg, but will plan to do this on our way south later next year. Late in the afternoon, a couple of fishing trawlers began prawning in the channel, then, just before bedtime a large sugar ship cruised by, accompanied by a couple of tugs, but apart from that it was very peaceful.

Crowded anchorage - Pancake Creek

Pancake Creek sunset

Early on Thursday morning the Captain lifted the anchor, leaving the First Mate in bed with a large cup of coffee and the morning newspaper on the iPad. The conditions were so calm there was no need for her to rise early! As we continued northwards, flat, glistening seas surrounded us with a few yachts unfurling sails in the distance trying to catch the slightest breeze. We approached Round Head just on 1:00, planning to enter through the bar to anchor for a night at the town of 1770 but the VMR were not sure that the depth over the bar was sufficient at that time for what we draw, so, as the tide was falling, we decided against it and continued through Bustard Bay. We passed a couple of whales heading south as we rounded Clews Point, then we cruised into Pancake Creek, dropping anchor just past the last channel markers. There were quite a few boats in the secluded anchorage already, enjoying the calm conditions. We dropped the dinghy on the water and cruised ashore - the tide was out so the walk from the sandbanks to the shore was quite a long one! Back aboard we enjoyed a stunning sunset before dinner, a movie (no TV reception here) and bed.

Bustard Head lighthouse

After a peaceful night on anchor we were keen to explore, so we went ashore early Friday morning - on a rising tide it was easy to get in close this time. We walked across the Chinaman's Creek mudflats, then up the hill to the Bustard Head Lighthouse, stopping for a chat with the acting lighthouse caretaker. Bustard Head was the first lighthouse built in Queensland in 1868 and was automated in 1986, falling prey to vandalism soon after and almost demolished before a dedicated group restored it in 2002. With a group arriving by LARC from 1770 due soon, we decided against the tour and continued onto the Jenny Lind Creek lookout, gazing across Bustard Bay and seeing our anchorage from the other direction. We returned to the track via the well restored cemetery and made the walk down to Aeroplane Beach before returning to Pancake Anchorage, where high tide ensured we didn't need to lug the dinghy across the sands. Later that afternoon we joined many members of the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron, including the Clipper crews we had met at Kingfisher Cove, for sundowners on the beach - they are cruising in a group, on their way to the "Shag Islet Cruising Yacht Club" for a charity rendezvous party. We will certainly aim to be there for next year's festivities - it sounds like great fun!

Low tide at Pancake Creek

As we are loving Pancake Creek, we are not moving, so Saturday was another lazy morning - although we did start the day with our exercise routine! Later we cruised out in the dinghy, enjoying the flat conditions, around Clews Point and across towards Aeroplane Beach. The water is so clear and aqua blue, we could see manta rays and even a turtle swimming beneath us. We returned to Manookatoo for lunch and a lazy afternoon, waiting for the tide to fall before enjoying a walk on the sandbar that appeared in the middle of the creek. Another beautiful sunset deepened into a starry night while we ate our three-course "Saturday special" and watched an episode of "Coast" set on the Great Barrier Reef - inspiration for future travel.

On Sunday morning the Captain raised the anchor again and we left Pancake Creek on a rising tide, heading north. The sea was glassy again and we saw a few whales frolicking in Rodds Bay as we passed, counting many coal loading ships waiting off shore for their turn at the busy coal loading facilities. Entering the shipping channel, the Captain radioed Harbour control, who

Gladstone by night

had already picked us up on AIS, to let them know we were entering and to find out the latest ship movements. We had intended anchoring in Tannum Sands but thought the entrance a little shallow, so we explored briefly in the dinghy before continuing north, passing two large ships in the channel, then heading across towards She Oak Island, dropping anchor in the bay. A lazy afternoon followed, while the captain watched his footy team win and the first mate read and did some knitting, before another glorious sunset capped off the day.

Gladstone Marina

On Monday morning it was time for an early exercise session before the sun was too high, followed by breakfast, and then the captain lifted the anchor and we made our way back across the shipping channel and into Auckland Creek, tying up at Gladstone Marina. This is a very industrial city, with coal, aluminum, gas and power plants all prominent on the waterfront, but despite this there are many lovely places and the marina itself is excellent, with great facilities. We caught the courtesy bus to the local shopping centre for supplies, stocking up the larder and the bar, before catching a taxi back to Manookatoo. After packing the supplies away we walked along the waterfront and over the bridge into the city centre, enjoying a drink at the Reef Hotel before lunch overlooking Auckland Creek at the Gladstone Yacht Club. Later that afternoon we explored the port precinct, which caters for a range of industries including pilots, barges, ferries and associated marine businesses. We bought a new book, "Curtis Coast", written by local sailing identity, Noel Patrick, planning to follow some of his advice regarding places to see in the local environment in the coming weeks.  In the evening we enjoyed sundowners on the Flybridge before dinner.

The busy port of Gladstone from Auckland Point Hill

On Tuesday we were up early for a walk along the foreshore and over the bridge, climbing up to Auckland Hill to see the busy port in action, then descending the 110 steps to walk around Auckland Point. Despite the busyness of the port and the noisiness of the local coal loading terminal, we are really enjoying Gladstone - and the weather, a beautiful 28 degrees with clear, sunny skies, is adding to our enjoyment! Today was the day for refueling the boat and dinghy and filling the water tanks. We are leaving Manookatoo in the morning to fly down for a family wedding in NSW followed by surgery to remove the "Suzuki frame" on the first mate's finger at Southport. When we return in 10 days time we intend cruising off again at the first opportunity, bound for the reef!!

The Captain's Log:
Hervey Bay to Gladstone
Distance travelled 143.3 Nautical Miles
Fuel consumption 171.4 litres (1.19 litres per NM)
Queensland Cruising so far:
Gold Coast to Gladstone
Distance travelled 402.5 Nautical Miles
Fuel consumption 426.8 litres (1.06 litres per NM)

Fabulous Fraser Island

Teebar Creek

The Captain has crossed a few ocean bars in the last little while - Yamba being the most challenging to date. Most bars have rock walls poking out well into the ocean to guide boats in; the Wide Bay Bar, into the Great Sandy Straits behind Fraser Island, is quite a different experience. Contacting the local Volunteer Marine Rescue well before we arrived on Friday afternoon, they gave him three map coordinates to follow, ensuring we wouldn't stray onto the shifting entrance sands. The Captain duly marked the coordinates on the Raymarine Navigation and we were set! The weather was also perfect - no wind, no swell, so within half an hour we were inside Wide Bay. We cruised down past Inskip Point, where 4WDs wait for the ferry to take them to Fraser Island, and turned to port, into the Tin Can channel, dropping anchor in Teebar Creek for a peaceful night amongst the mangroves.

Sunset at Garry's Anchorage

On Saturday morning the Captain was awake early, pulling up the anchor for a cruise around into Tin Can Bay. We tied up at the fuel wharf to re-fuel the dinghy, then took a walk up to the local shopping centre for a few necessities. Returning to Manookatoo we cruised further downstream, turning off the engine once we reached the main channel, drifiting along while we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. Starting the engine again, we cruised north, past the many 4WDs waiting to cross the Wide Bay entrance for a weekend on Fraser Island, making our way along the Great Sandy Straits and into Garry's Anchorage, a popular place for many cruising boats, with easy access to shore. We enjoyed a walk along the southern track after lunch, meeting fellow cruisers and swapping boating yarns, before returning to Manookatoo for a lazy afternoon and a lovely dinner. With very few people around it is a lovely peaceful place for a night.


Another early morning on Sunday was to ensure that we could exit the northern entrance to the channel while the tide was still high. The Great Sandy Straits are, as the name suggests, full of sandbanks, which catch out those who don't utilise tides to their advantage. We saw several boats stranded and waiting for the tide to rise - and we didn't want to join them! We cruised along beside Fraser Island for several nautical miles, anchoring at Ungowa for breakfast, then taking the dinghy ashore to explore this old sand mining area. There are abandoned jetties, shipping channels and old rusting wrecks littering the area but, in a sign that mother nature restores what man destroys, the mangroves are gradually reclaiming the area.

Whale!

Continuing north, we crossed the straits and headed into River Heads, where the Mary and Susan Rivers run into the Great Sandy Straits. We dropped the anchor inside the Susan River and lazed the afternoon away, amazed to see a whale cruise by, heading upstream, then turning once the river shallowed to return to deeper water.
With early morning high tides, we were bound to be up early again on Monday, heading back into the Great Sandy Straits and across to Kingfisher Bay, where the barge brings cars and passengers from the mainland to Fraser Island. We came ashore in the dinghy just near the Kingfisher Bay resort. enjoying a walk to the lookout and back to the jetty before lunch at the Sand Bar. Debating whether to partake of another drink, we noticed how much the tide had fallen and, not wishing to drag the dinghy too far to the water, we hastily departed back to Manookatoo! That afternoon we were joined on board for sundowners by two other Clipper owners - Mike and Jan from "Funky Time" and Ray and Trish from "Serenity". We swapped boating stories and all agreed that the Clippers we own are lovely boats for enjoying all manner of cruising!

Three Clipper crews

On Tuesday morning we pulled up the anchor and continued north-west, past Big Woody Island and around into Urangan on Hervey Bay, tying up at the Boat Club Marina. Shopping and washing were the order of the morning, including buying prawns from the local co-op. After lunch we took a walk along the foreshore, marvelling at the huge sandbars revealed on a low tide. We walked along the 880m pier, which served previously loading first coal, then sugar and finally fuel before being abandoned and almost demolished - a local campaign saved the remainder of what had once extended 1.2km into deeper water. We returned to Manookatoo for showers before a drink at the Boat Club, enjoying dinner aboard and an early night.

Urangan Pier

With a longer cruising day on Wednesday we dropped our lines before 6am, heading up the long channel between Urangan and Woody Island and out into Hervey Bay, passing the Fairway Bouy just after 8am and turning north-west again. We have enjoyed our time inside the Great Sandy Straits and will certainly return to explore more on our way back, but for now we have to be in Gladstone in less than a week, so it is time to move on.

Cruising into the Coral Sea

Sunset at Tangalooma wrecks

Swimming! In July!

Saturday night on Moreton Bay was to be the last of five weeks in "protected waters". After leaving the Brisbane River that morning, we cruised across to Tangalooma, a large resort on Moreton Island. We dropped anchor inside the large reef of old shipwrecks - an interesting feature of the local landscape, created to provide a safe anchorage in rough weather. Dropping the dinghy in the water we rode ashore, only to have a security guard shoo us off the beach - Tangalooma is a closed resort, guests only allowed on the beach or in the facilities! Returning to Manookatoo and restoring the dinghy to the flybridge, we lazed the afternoon away, enjoying hamburgers for lunch washed down with a couple of drinks. The weather was beautiful and the Captain even ventured into the water, giving the waterline of Manookatoo a nice clean, while the first mate held onto a rope to stop the current taking him away. A delicious lamb shank dinner followed before an early night, as the gentle waves rocked us to sleep. 

Entering Mooloolaba

With mornings brightening earlier, it is easy to wake and be ready to cruise. We were lifting the anchor just before 6am on Sunday morning and cruising through the channel heading north, with hardly a wave as we entered the Coral Sea. We headed past Bribie Island followed the north west shipping channel, rounding Point Cartwright and heading into the Mooloolah River just after 11am, tying up at the Yacht Club Marina at Mooloolaba, our home for the next few days. We took a walk along the foreshore boardwalk to Mooloolaba, visiting the Information Centre for some local knowledge and stopping for a drink at the Surf Club before returning to the Yacht Club for lunch. Our mooring is just near the fishing trawler wharves, and a walk to the Co-Op highlighted how much local seafood is caught in the area - we look forward to the opportunity to try some out in the coming days.

The First Mate caught up with family

On Monday, the First Mate's great-aunty Betty and Les came to visit and the Captain gave Les, a keen ex-boatie, a tour of Manookatoo - and he loved it, of course! Lunch at the Yacht Club included stories reminiscing about past boating adventures as well as many about the First Mate's family - a thoroughly pleasant day. 

The Captain and Danny

We were very fortunate to have use of a car for the time we were in Mooloolaba, so we made the most of it on Tuesday in order to visit the Captain's older half-brother, Danny, and Joan, who live nearby. Also keen ex-boaties, there was more reminiscing about past adventures as well as family stories and photos to share. We returned to Manookatoo to enjoy some local prawns for lunch, then later we made good use of the car to stock up on supplies at the local shopping centre before enjoying more local seafood for dinner.

Noosa

A road trip was the order of the day on Wednesday, and we started with a visit to the Eumundi Markets, buying up some local produce while we were there. We headed to Noosa Heads for a cuppa and a walk along the foreshore, then drove further south, following the coast and stopping for lunch at Coolum on our way home. 

Thursday was "medical day" - and the real reason we had borrowed a car - driving to the Gold Coast for X-rays, a CT scan, and visits to the Surgeon and Hand Therapist. With more exercises to do and a date set for surgery, we returned to the Sunshine Coast in the mid-afternoon to begin readying the boat for our next sea voyage. An afternoon walk to Mooloolaba Surf Club for a final drink overlooking the ocean was followed by dinner and an early night. 

Our last night in Mooloolaba

At first light in Friday we dropped the lines and headed out through the bar, passing the towns of the Sunshine Coast and cruising north. With light winds and a small swell, it was a pleasant day for cruising along, and by 3pm we were heading into the Wide Bay Bar in smooth seas, ready to enjoy the next little while exploring the Great Sandy Straits and Fraser Island.

The Captain's Log:

Brisbane to Mooloolaba

Distance travelled 65.5 Nautical Miles

Fuel consumption 54.9 litres

Mooloolaba to Wide Bay

Distance travelled 66 Nautical Miles

Fuel consumption 76 litres