A taste of history

A "taste" of history - beer off the wood

The Captain and First Mate both have many happy memories of Brisbane, seaparately and together. The Captain's company had an office in Brisbane and he has visited many times, so he was keen to catch up with old workmates. The First Mate lived in Brisbane for two years, enjoying Expo, making friends through Playgroup and having her baby son at Wesley Hospital. She has friends and family in Brisbane she was keen to see. Together the Captain and First Mate have visited Brisbane a couple of times, with a visit to the Breakfast Creek Hotel being a particularly fond memory they were keen to recreate!

Little Ship Club, Dunwich

We entered Moreton Bay via North Stradbroke island on Friday, enjoying an exploratry walk and lunch at the Little Ship Club at Dunwich, then cruising across to drop anchor in the lee of the breeze near St Helena Island, an historic prison site, on Friday afternoon. We enjoyed a walk ashore, the captain spent some time cleaning the dinghy while the first mate explored the historic cemeteries. Returning to Manookatoo, the dinghy was hoisted aboard in preparation for entering the port of Brisbane early the next morning.

Prisoners' cemetery, St Helena Island

We were up at first light on Saturday to take advantage of the tide into the Brisbane River. Passing through the busy entrance, we saw container ships from all parts of the globe on the port side, while planes from all parts of the globe landed on the starboard side! It is 14 nautical miles from the river mouth to the city and river traffic gets busier the further up you venture, with CityCats, CityHoppers and CityFerries adding to the mix. We arrived at Dockside Marina, just before the Story Bridge, later that morning and tied up at our marina berth, keen to go exploring. Catching a CityHopper across the river, we walked to the markets at Powerhouse, Newstead, and explored the busy food stalls. After some deliberation we decided we would try cooking "Turkey Shanks" that night, and bought a range of vegetables to accompany our dinner before catching the CityCat back to dockside. Later we caught another CityHopper upstream, to South Bank, where we ambled along the boardwalks and food stalls, enjoying a Bratwurst lunch before crossing the Goodwill bridge to the city, and making our way back via the Botanical Gardens to Eagle Street pier. where another CityHopper took us home.

Enjoying times with Donna and Mike

Sunday dawned bright and sunny and a walk across the Story Bridge and back again started our morning. We had invited Donna and Mike, friends we had met aboard Star Flyer in Scandinavia, to visit our boat for a drink before lunch at the Story Bridge Hotel. They brought the Moet - our tipple of choice during the cruise - and we recalled happy memories of our Star Flyer cruise, including Mike's proposal, which Donna accepted! A lovely lunch followed, with a few drinks and many stories shared. Later, we worked off our "excess" with a walk along the river beneath the Kangaroo Point cliffs and a CityHopper ride back from the Maritime Museum.

Our opportunities for revisiting old times continued on Monday; the First Mate caught the RiverCat to Regatta, where she enjoyed a morning coffee with Anne and Silvano, talking family and memories. Lunch with Fran and Peter, friends from Playgroup days, followed - it had been a long time between conversations but it felt like no time at all. Meanwhile the Captain met Don, an old work colleague, and enjoyed reliving past experiences and sharing new stories over lunch and a couple of beers. That night we had plenty to talk about!

Brisbane Town Hall

On Tuesday we revised our exercise program to accommodate the First Mate's injury, then we ventured out to explore history of a different kind. We took the CityFerry across to Eagle Street Pier and walked down through the streets to King George Square, where we enjoyed a tour of the "This is Brisbane" exhibition and a lift ride to the top of the Clock Tower. Brisbane's history is interspersed with river floods, the worst being in 1893 and the most recent in 2011. Photos and film show the story of its devastation. Returning to the square, we walked towards the Queen Street Mall and down to Eagle Street Pier, passing the beautiful Catholic Church and Customs House on the way. We returned to Manookatoo for lunch and a lazy afternoon, before another of the Captain's work colleagues, Peter and Deb joined us for dinner at the Story Bridge Hotel.

Breakfast Creek Hotel

Another walk across the Story Bridge started Wednesday, meandering down into the city to discover what was on offer at the markets near the river. Finding nothing that particularly tempted us, we returned to Manookatoo via the CityHopper. After a refreshing cuppa we boarded a CityCat downstream to Teneriffe, where we walked to the Breakfast Creek Hotel to enjoy a delicious steak and seafood lunch and, for the Captain, a beer "off the wood" in the historic old bar. After such an extravagant lunch we certainly didn't need much for dinner!

Thursday was "medical day", with an early train trip to the Gold Coast where the First Mate had appointments for X-rays, specialist follow-up and hand therapy. Luckily everything went smoothly and we were back at Manookatoo by early afternoon. That night we caught the RiverCat to Teneriffe and enjoyed another lovely night with Donna and Mike in their apartment overlooking the river. We caught our first Uber back to the boat that night - the experience was so easy (and cheap!) it won't be our last.

For our last day in the city, we started Friday morning with a walk along the Kangaroo Point cliffs, returning to Manookatoo for breakfast and to ready the boat for tomorrow's departure - doing the washing, filling the tanks and ensuring everything is "ship shape". We caught the CityHopper to Sydney Street wharf and wandered through the lovely old streets of New Farm, shopping at the local precinct for infgredients for an antipasto lunch. Later that afternoon we caught the CityCat to Northside Hamilton to Eat Street, a large market made out of shipping containers where all manner of cuisine can be purchased. We enjoyed Chandon and Coronas, chinese dumplings, turkish mezze and slow cooked lamb, listening to bands and enjoying the atmosphere before returning to Manookatoo for an early night.

Gateway Bridge at sunrise

A busy port - plus warship

The Captain was up well before 6am on Saturday, keen to catch the outgoing tide on the river. We made our way downstream, past Donna and Mike. sleeping in their apartment, RiverCats still tied up at their wharf, the P&O Dawn Princess berthed at Brett's Wharf and the many container ships, plus a variety of war ships fresh from international "War games" off the coast. We have loved our week in Brisbane and the opportunities it has brought us to have a taste of history.

An extra week in "Paradise"

Whilst recovery from surgery has kept us on the Gold Coast for a week longer than intended, we have continued to make the most of our surroundings - and beautiful weather - to ensure the stay is as enjoyable as possible!
With a few days before the first of several medical appointments, we cruised up to Calypso Bay for lunch at Harrigans Irish Pub, then across to Jumpinpin Bar, at the top of South Stradbroke Island, watching a boat cross the bar and head out to sea, before we continued down to Tipplers Passage, at South Straddie, for two nights on anchor. We enjoyed ocean and lakeside walks, and made new friends with others also cruising north, getting advice on passages to consider and anchorages worth investigating. Tipplers is a lovely location, very busy with many moored and passing boats, particularly on weekends. Fortunately, a 6 knot limit stops the swamping wake from large motor cruisers!!

Where the forest meets the sea

We returned to one of our favourite anchorages at Paradise Point on Sunday night, enjoying a walk and a drink at The Point before returning to the boat for pizza and an early night. The next morning, the Captain moved to anchor just off Bayview Harbour, taking the first mate up the canal by dinghy to her appointment with the "Hand Therapist", then cruising across to Southport Yacht Club Marina. A tram trip to Northcliffe, with a drink at the Surf Club, then a walk along the beach and another drink at O'Malleys, left us feeling like we had "done" Surfers Paradise! We enjoyed dinner at Southport Yacht Club, overlooking the marina, that night.

Surfers Paradise - including meter maids

On Tuesday morning the first mate had a bone density scan, so once again the Captain drove the dinghy across the water and tied up at the jetty for a short walk up the hill. Returning again to Manookatoo, we cruised back along South Straddie, anchoring just off Currigee Campground and taking another walk to the ocean. It is easy, when you look north, to imagine you are in the wilderness, but a glance south reminds you of how close the skyscrapers of Surfers are! After lunch we cruised back across the Broadwater and along the waterfront to Paradise Point for a final night on anchor, choosing dinner from the local butcher/seafood shop and enjoying a farewell drink at The Point.

A favourite place for a tipple

Another morning cruise to anchor just off Bayview Harbour, but this time a freshening wind made us wary of a trip in the dinghy, so we cruised into the berth we had booked at the Marina and borrowed Jenny's car instead! Shopping was the order of the day, with stops at Runaway Bay shopping centre and Dan Murphy's, plus flowers to thank Jenny for her generosity! Laundry was next on the agenda, bringing our washing up to date before our next cruise. A delicious dinner with Jenny capped off the day.

Farewell Surfers Paradise!

Thursday appointments with the Hand Therapist and the Orthopaedic Specialist reassured the First Mate that the surgery and recovery program was on track. With a week before the next appointments it was time to return the car to Jenny, cast off our lines and begin the cruise north, following the Main Channel through mangroves and islands towards Moreton Bay. After 22 nautical miles, we dropped anchor in the lee of Karragarra Island, having finally said goodbye to the Gold Coast and looking forward to new adventures ahead.
Captain's log:
Cruising distance: 129 nautical miles
Duration of stay: 25 days

Family and friends.....and folly

The Gold Coast; 41 floors up

With many transport options to reach the Gold Coast, we have been lucky to catch up with friends and family over the past week. And with beautiful weather conditions and many anchorages to visit, we have been keen to do some exploring!

Marathon hero!

The First Mate's daughter, Kirsty, was here to participate in the Gold Coast half marathon, so we made the most of coinciding visits to have lunch at Northcliffe Surf Club, watch her run and enjoy well-earned massages the next day.
Paynesville friends Peter and Sal drove down from their holiday on the Sunshine Coast and we enjoyed lunch onboard Manookatoo at Paradise Point on a beautiful sunny Tuesday.

Peter and Sal from Paynesville

Sunset drinks at Couran Cove

The Captain's sister, Shaunagh and Mark joined us for two days cruising on Manookatoo, staying at Couran Cove on Thursday and enjoying drinks at sunset cove and a morning walk to the surf beach, then cruising to Paradise Point on Friday, with a walk along the Esplanade and a drink at a local bar, then they had three nights in a Gold Coast apartment where we joined them for a lovely family dinner on the 41st floor.

Jack, Amy and Chris

41st floor family dining

The Captain's son, Chris, flew up from Melbourne with Amy and Jack on Saturday for a few days in the sunshine. We were so pleased to see how well Jack is growing and we enjoyed quality time with them while they were here, including a cruise around the Broadwater and Wave Break Island with fresh prawns straight from the trawler for lunch, and dinner at the Hard Rock Cafe.

First try strapping...

Living on a boat in a location like the Gold Coast is easy....most of the time, but a small folly can become a major challenge! A chance slip on a painted driveway one dewy morning proved the First Mate's undoing, as she stumbled and fell, hurting her right hand. Remembering the First Aid training undertaken before the cruise began, it was time for RICE: rest, ice, compression, elevation, followed by strapping fingers together while they recovered - only they didn't.

A "Suzuki frame"

A visit to the doctor and an x-ray showed a fracture, the resultant visit to an upper limb specialist and a CT scan revealed a shattered and dislocated knuckle. As a result, surgery to fit a "suzuki frame" and six weeks of therapy and repeat doctors' visits will be keeping us in this vicinity for the next while, and the Captain has taken on the added responsibilities of first mate, chief cook and bottle washer.
We are confident that with some logistical planning we can make this work and keep enjoying ourselves! With plenty of places to visit in the local area and beautiful weather for lazing around, plus a range of transport options to get us back to the Gold Coast from further afar, the Manookatoo Adventures will continue.....!!

Onwards to the Sunshine State!

First light - leaving Iluka

We were up at first light on Saturday morning, as we were unsure of whether we would go all the way to the Gold Coast seaway or drop anchor halfway, behind Cape Byron. The promising conditions had many people on the move, and we joined the procession out over the Yamba bar and into the ocean. The wind was almost non existent and the ocean swell was a slow roll, making cruising ideal. As the sun came up we headed north, passing Evans Head and Ballina, where minor flooding in the river had created a muddy plume way out to sea. We saw many whales along the way, breaching and tail slapping, keeping their distance from us - and us from  them! Just before 2:00 we rounded Cape Byron and, with the sea conditions so mild, we decided to drop anchor just off the beach for the night. Several other boats did the same, and Grant from Sea Wolf came over in his dinghy and offered us a lift ashore, where we enjoyed an afternoon cuppa before returning to Manookatoo for dinner and an early night.

Byron Bay

The sea swell dropped further overnight, with the gentle rocking motion ensuring we slept well. The captain was up early again on Sunday, and just after 6am he pulled up the anchor and we headed off. It was a beautiful day for sitting on the flybridge enjoying the view as we passed the beaches of the far north NSW coast and the mountain range behind, with Mt Warning rising in the distance.

Time for a new cruising guide!

As we passed the Tweed River and moved into Queensland waters, we put away our "Cruising the NSW coast" book and opened "Cruising the Coral coast", eager to read what Alan Lucas had in store for us. Passing the Gold Coast beaches we could see many people enjoying the water on such a beautiful winter day.
We entered the Gold Coast Seaway, finding it just as Alan had described: "expect frenetic, thrill seeking activity" - with jet skis, kayaks, small fishing boats (including two anchored in the middle!), yachts, large power boats - it was crazy! Sea Wolf had entered just before us and finding the nearby moorings overcrowded, Grant suggested an alternative - Paradise Point. We followed him along past South Stradbroke island and the mansions of  the Sovereign Islands, dropping anchor on the quiet side of the waterway.
The waterways of the northern Gold Coast promise us lots of different new experiences without venturing back into the ocean and we intend spending at least a couple of weeks here. As the mayor of the Gold Coast says, "with 270+ kms of navigable waterways and a climate that boasts 300+ days a year of sunshine, Gold Coast provides a heaven on earth for boat lovers"!!
So far we have tried five different spots and each experience has been unique:

Go, Kirsty!

Paradise Point is a peaceful anchorage with upmarket canal estates on the eastern side, nice suburban streets on the west and a lovely village of shops with lots of cafes. It also offers four different bus routes to the Southport transport hub.

Catching up with Jenny and Simon

Bayview Harbour Marina is where our friends Jenny and Simon live so it was lovely to catch up with them. It is also on the running track for the Gold Coast half marathon, and we made the most of cheering Kirsty as she ran both ways, then following on our bikes to Southport!

The Gold Coast City Marina, on the Coomera River, was where Manookatoo had come from and the captain was keen to show the people at Clipper how well she was traveling. We both enjoyed admiring some newer bigger Clippers but, as always, we were very happy to return to our own boat! The facilities at both the Marina and Boatworks nearby are very impressive, to say nothing of the Riviera factory between the two; it is a hive of activity with boats being delivered, repaired, taken out or returned to the water. Not far away is Sanctuary Cove - the money in this area is so staggering, with huge houses, boats and cars and the shops, restaurants and facilities to support the wealthy residents and visitors.

Not for the faint-hearted

The north arm of the Coomera is a winding, shoaling river - definitely not for the faint hearted! After just making it over areas with depths of zero, we were very happy to rejoin the main channel!

South Stradbroke Island

Couran Cove resort, on South Stradbroke Island, is a hidden "gem" in this region. It offers everything a holiday maker could ask for - with resort pools, cafés and bars, sporting facilities and bikes for hire, walking trails to the ocean on one side and the river on the other - and a special deal for boaties: what you pay in marina fees you get in resort credit, encouraging us to have a drink and lunch at the restaurant overlooking the marina - lovely!

Couran Cove, South Stradbroke Island

"Bum's Bay", a little inlet next to the spit north of Seaworld, is a very popular anchorage for boats of all kinds - for sailors making the passage north or south it is just inside the Gold Coast seaway so very easy to stop for the night, for houseboats there are shallow corners close to shore, and for all the other boaties looking for a nice spot close to Surfers Paradise or the surf beaches it offers all they want, with the opportunity to use tenders to get closer to the "hot spots" without getting caught up in it. We found a spot on a Friday night that hadn't been there the previous Sunday; the captain counted over 50 boats there that night - and I reckon he missed a few!

"Bum's Bay" on a quiet afternoon

We have family in the vicinity during the coming fortnight, so we look forward to showing them some of what we have found and finding new places as well...
Captain's log
Yamba bar to Gold Coast seaway
Distance travelled: 100.01 nautical miles
Duration: 14 hours, 50 minutes
Fuel consumption: 117 litres
Trip summary
Sydney to Gold Coast
Distance: 425.1 nautical miles
Hours: 61.35
Fuel: 599.4 litres